Now Magazine Review

Did you know that during WWII the French bistro was a breeding ground for international espionage? After all, who would suspect an innocent gathering of hungry patrons to be a fountain of war secrets and classified information on the enemy? But as the battle grew older and the enemy wiser so did combative tactics. And so is the history behind the typically narrow bistro café. Lined with banquettes and long mirrors often seen lining the walls, what better way to overhear the whispers of covert conversations or lip-read silenced words from across a crowded room?

It's in this custom that POP Bistro has designed its venue. In the tradition of its wartime forefather, this quaint eatery features chocolate-coloured ceiling and floor, dark stained furnishings, classic white tablecloths, and thick-framed, sloped mirrors that run the course of the room. Industrial-looking metal lanterns that dangle from wiry suspensions softly light the space, and the entire mood is completed by the soft sounds of jazz.
        Located at 686 Queen St. E., this is a first-time venture for co-owners Marc DeGagné and Joe Hume. Accompanied by chef Matthew Moreau previously of 360 in the CN Tower, their primary mandate is to provide a fine, casual-dining neighbourhood destination.
        The 10-foot bar at the rear overlooks an immaculate open kitchen and features a full stock of unique wines, imported beers, champagnes, liqueurs and spirits. Or for lighter preferences, one can choose from an assortment of rich European coffees and import soft drinks.
        The modest menu offers their signature fare of hearty dishes ranging from Braised Lamb Shank, Pork Tenderloin, Lamb Meatloaf and Steak & Frites. The rotating specials invite the customer to try something a little out of the ordinary, such as Duck Confit or Algerian Rabbit. And the standards change with the Canadian seasons, promising fresh culinary surprises with the arrival of spring/summer dining.
        We go for an assorted variety of taste sensations, starting with absolutely enormous deep-fried Crab Cakes served on spring greens with lemon mayonnaise. Though these are a starter, they're seriously big enough to be a meal on their own. But nonetheless we move right along to our second indulgence of Chorizo Sausage prepared with juicy grapes in a port wine reduction.
        For my entrée I decide on the Roasted Quail with pear stuffing, roasted vegetables, new potatoes and sautéed spinach. These are the smallest pair of birds I've personally ever consumed, but the overall portion size is far more generous than my already straining belly.
        My husband chooses the Lamb Meatloaf with sides of sweet potato mash and spring vegetables in savoury wine sauce. This is the kind of meal fit for any man with a substantially healthy appetite, and judging by his naked plate it doesn't seem to have disappointed.
        Despite our complaints of bloated discomfort, Marc insists we try the Crème Brule overhearing that it is my all-time favourite dessert. And so arrives the classically French, vanilla infused, baked crème delight with warm, crunchy caramel crust. If this isn't your choice, however, they also offer a huge slab of flourless, chocolate-orange lava cake.

        It doesn't end there. POP Bistro also offers weekend brunch with favourites of Eggs Florentine and Benedict on French croissants rather than English muffins, as well as Brioche French Toast with hazelnut-chocolate sauce. Open Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 - 3:00, and then again for supper from 5:00 - 10:00, these are the only days they have daytime service.
        The rest of the week POP Bistro is strictly for the dinner set. Although you're more than welcome to sit at the bar for drinks as long as you like, their reputed service is not that of a cocktail lounge.


Kids are welcome at POP Bistro so bring them along, but expect to easily part with $80 plus for dinner for two complete with wine.
        So now that the secret's out, seize your taste buds, gather your allies, and POP in out of the trenches for a meal truly deserving of your troops.

POP Bistro
686 Queen St. E. • 416-461-9663



	Photo by David Lawrence
A Lesson In POP Culture *By Simone Cupid*	Photo by David Lawrence
Did you know that during WWII the French bistro was a breeding ground for international espionage? After all, who would suspect an innocent gathering of hungry patrons to be a fountain of war secrets and classified information on the enemy? But as the battle grew older and the enemy wiser so did combative tactics. And so is the history behind the typically narrow bistro café. Lined with banquettes and long mirrors often seen lining the walls, what better way to overhear the whispers of covert conversations or lip-read silenced words from across a crowded room? It's in this custom that POP Bistro has designed its venue. In the tradition of its wartime forefather, this quaint eatery features chocolate-coloured ceiling and floor, dark stained furnishings, classic white tablecloths, and thick-framed, sloped mirrors that run the course of the room. Industrial-looking metal lanterns that dangle from wiry suspensions softly light the space, and the entire mood is completed by the soft sounds of jazz. Located at 686 Queen St. E., this is a first-time venture for co-owners Marc DeGagné and Joe Hume. Accompanied by chef Matthew Moreau previously of 360 in the CN Tower, their primary mandate is to provide a fine, casual-dining neighbourhood destination. The 10-foot bar at the rear overlooks an immaculate open kitchen and features a full stock of unique wines, imported beers, champagnes, liqueurs and spirits. Or for lighter preferences, one can choose from an assortment of rich European coffees and import soft drinks. The modest menu offers their signature fare of hearty dishes ranging from Braised Lamb Shank, Pork Tenderloin, Lamb Meatloaf and Steak & Frites. The rotating specials invite the customer to try something a little out of the ordinary, such as Duck Confit or Algerian Rabbit. And the standards change with the Canadian seasons, promising fresh culinary surprises with the arrival of spring/summer dining. We go for an assorted variety of taste sensations, starting with absolutely enormous deep-fried Crab Cakes served on spring greens with lemon mayonnaise. Though these are a starter, they're seriously big enough to be a meal on their own. But nonetheless we move right along to our second indulgence of Chorizo Sausage prepared with juicy grapes in a port wine reduction. For my entrée I decide on the Roasted Quail with pear stuffing, roasted vegetables, new potatoes and sautéed spinach. These are the smallest pair of birds I've personally ever consumed, but the overall portion size is far more generous than my already straining belly. My husband chooses the Lamb Meatloaf with sides of sweet potato mash and spring vegetables in savoury wine sauce. This is the kind of meal fit for any man with a substantially healthy appetite, and judging by his naked plate it doesn't seem to have disappointed. Despite our complaints of bloated discomfort, Marc insists we try the Crème Brule overhearing that it is my all-time favourite dessert. And so arrives the classically French, vanilla infused, baked crème delight with warm, crunchy caramel crust. If this isn't your choice, however, they also offer a huge slab of flourless, chocolate-orange lava cake. It doesn't end there. POP Bistro also offers weekend brunch with favourites of Eggs Florentine and Benedict on French croissants rather than English muffins, as well as Brioche French Toast with hazelnut-chocolate sauce. Open Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 - 3:00, and then again for supper from 5:00 - 10:00, these are the only days they have daytime service. The rest of the week POP Bistro is strictly for the dinner set. Although you're more than welcome to sit at the bar for drinks as long as you like, their reputed service is not that of a cocktail lounge. Kids are welcome at POP Bistro so bring them along, but expect to easily part with $80 plus for dinner for two complete with wine. So now that the secret's out, seize your taste buds, gather your allies, and POP in out of the trenches for a meal truly deserving of your troops. POP Bistro 686 Queen St. E. • 416-461-9663 Click Here for additional Review